trying a breaker bar on the pinion nut but too tight and too much backlash when applying pressure...

so used my homemade pinion fixing tool... long bar bolted to flange holds it rock steady and then nut comes undone easily

clean up again

comparing P4 flange (left) with a land rover one (right) - look the same

just checking if any reason why not to reverse the bolt direction on reassembly - save them being trapped by the flange

prising out seal rather than removing whole seal housing

out

a more modern double lipped land rover seal looks like it'll do a better job

comparing

chosing an old bearing race to use to tap seal home squarely

fitted (blue hylomer on outside, grease on inside)

locking tool used again and torqued to 85lb/gt.

new split pin and job done

stiff UJ time - felt fine on car, but when removed prop to do rear oil seal discovered that this UJ only moved in one plane

replacement genuine kit from Hardy Spicer (complete with grease nipple) is land rover part RTC3346G (G = genuine and worth having)

which corresponds to Hardy Spicer number HS166

remove 4 circlips

support well, both ends

use something to push (old cam follower) and something to catch (old brake piston)

push from one side, but not enough to push cup out into centre of yolk

when you enough protruding, stop

and pull out with grips or use vice to help out

your rollers should not look like this !

then turn around and push out the opposite cup

dry again

parted

then remove the remaining two cups using same technique

these at least had some grease left in them

old on the right, new on the left. New one has deeper cups and bearings and grease drillings and nipple

clean up the eyes and remove any burrs with a file

press in carefully, being very careful not to dislodge needle bearings. make sure both caps and crosspiece in place before squeezing. also make sure nipple hole is facing shaft